W1D and W11
The grilled mussel skewers are justifiably famous at this Borough Market hideaway – all mood lighting, concrete, lush plants and taupe leather banquettes, a serene refuge from the chaos just beyond its doors. But, all of the “kolae” dishes – a southern Thai cooking style which involves ingredients being coated in a coconut marinade and grilled over open flames – are mouthwatering, in fact, including the chicken bamboo skewer and kabocha squash with ajaad relish. Pair them with the Phuket-style soy-braised pork belly; the southern gati curry of stone bass, turmeric and fresh coconut cream; the kale and herb fritters; and a delectable mango custard with sweet sticky rice and toasted mung beans. No wonder Kolae recently won a prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand award for affordable fine dining.
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SE1
There are now three riotous branches of this knock-out southern Thai specialist: one in Oxford Street’s bustling Arcade Food Hall, another cacophonous outpost near Borough Market, and the most recent opening, slap bang in the middle of Covent Garden. All have the life-affirming food-court atmosphere – and spice level! – you ache for after returning from any trip to Thailand. Go with the heavenly chicken skewer, followed by the impossibly flaky beef shoulder massaman (a roti on the side is essential for mopping up all of its thick, unctuous sauce) and the chilli-topped stir-fried morning glory. Then, end with the young coconut pudding with tapioca pearls and lychee, a real sight to behold, which, crucially, tastes just as impressive.
WC1A
Casual counter seating, low lighting, a pumping soundtrack and finger-licking-good chilli fish sauce wings set the tone at this Shoreditch staple – an effortlessly cool, unpretentious Thai barbecue joint where you can dig in with your hands and sweat through the spicy highlights without embarrassment. Dunk a buttery, house-made roti into the rich massaman beef shin, pick at the fried chicken skin, slurp nahm prik pao mussels and clams, and don’t miss both the stir-fried cabbage with mushroom soy and the som tam daikon with cashews. Oh, and keep a fresh tamarind and ginger soda to hand at all times, essential for cooling you down.
E1
This low-key, family-run gem, a stone’s throw from London Bridge station, is the kind of place you dream of having just down the road from you, to swing by for a quick drink and snack, a takeaway, or leisurely lunch. A tall glass of sweet iced Thai milk tea is a must, as are the emerald banana fritters, the Bangkok gra pow, the streetside favourite pad kee mao, and the northern Thai larb Isan. Easy, comforting and just the thing to tide you over until your next pilgrimage to southeast Asia.
SE1
