Having the best dive watches on your radar with zero intention of ever using them for diving is absolutely fine by us. Splashing around in the pool? Sure. Descending to the Mariana Trench? Perhaps not.
“Dive watches remain a core category for watch enthusiasm because the format combines a useful overbuilt do-anything ethos with the still very popular charm of mid-century exceptionalism,” says James Stacey of Hodinkee and The Grey Nato podcast. “Dive watches were born of need and worn by the types of people that many of us aspire to be in our modern lives. Even if you don’t dive, the vibe of a great dive watch is rooted in purpose and fuss-free capability. And though dive watches have a less tool-like context today, the rakish personality of the modern dive watch is based in a deeply appealing history. With a great dive watch, you feel you can do anything.”
.png?trim=34,0,86,0&auto=webp&quality=75&width=1200 "My London: Trinny Woodall shares her secrets with cabbies, shops at Liberty and stays at Claridge’s")
Whatever your reason for wanting to eek out the best dive watches, here is our ultimate guide to what you need to look for, what you should (and shouldn’t) be buying, and any other deep, pressing questions you might be fathoming – like what characteristics define a dive watch.
What is a dive watch?
Though the vast majority of dive watches have now been superseded in functionality by dive computers, dive watches were originally used by divers to calculate the amount of time spent underwater – important when you’re dealing with oxygen tanks with limited supply. Technically speaking, a dive watch is a timepiece that can withstand a minimum water-resistance of 10 atm (the equivalent of around 100 metres). Where most dive-ready timepieces these days will be able to reach minimum depths of 200-300 metres, some can go as deep as 20,000 feet below the surface of the sea – the CX Swiss Military Watch being a case in point. Those at the shallower end of the dive spectrum should be used for more recreational scuba diving, snorkelling and swimming, while technical divers will require something with greater resistance.
Which characteristics define a dive watch?
There are many characteristics that define a true dive watch. Firstly, most dive watches will feature a rotating bezel, which allows the diver to easily measure elapsed time. Your dive watch will most likely also feature a long rubber strap, making it both suitable for underwater use and for wear over a wetsuit. What’s more, the watch should be finished with luminous hands and indices in order to make them both readable at depth. Another useful thing to have is a helium escape valve, which allows for the safe release of potentially damaging helium in the watch. This builds up as divers go deeper underwater. If your dive watch is particularly fancy, you may also have a built-in depth sensor. Other key characteristics include a screw-in crown and case-back finished with rubber seals, and an extra-thick crystal (occasionally domed) to deal with all the extra pressure. Phew.
Are dive watches actually waterproof?
Dive watches are always only water-resistant to the depth stipulated on the watch. Take them any depth below that and not only will your watch not be water-resistant, but it will be broken. What you can rely on, however, is that if you use your dive watch (resistant, as we know, to a minimum of 100-metre depth) for recreational swimming, you shouldn’t have a problem (although try and avoid the bath or shower, where excessive humidity can present problems of their own). Remember: most diving watches are able to go deeper than humans themselves can go, so you should, invariably, be fine in most scenarios.
Nomadic Marai 401
- Case size: 36mm / 40mm
- Material: 316L stainless steel
- Dial colours: Navigator White, Emerald Abyss, Deep Ocean Blue, Pitch Black, Crimson Dawn, Classic Black and Gold, Blackout
For 2026, Nomadic’s flagship gets its most significant update yet: refined case, new five-facet polished handset, updated bezel font, full 12 indices, and a 6 o’clock date window that finally nails the dial symmetry. The new Sellita SW200-2 adds 65 hours of power reserve, a full day more than before. It now also comes in a 36mm compact, for small watch enthusiasts. Proper indie watchmaking from Northern Ireland with genuine soul.
