Unexpected colour pairings have long been one of the many tricks in Mrs Prada’s book of eclecticism. A considered clash is central to the fine-tuned eccentricity she has perfected over the years, with combinations that might seem unsightly on a colour wheel, feeling entirely right when united on the runway.
For spring/summer 1996, the collection widely credited with ushering in the “ugly-chic” aesthetic we have all come to know and love, Mrs P famously paired avocado green and sludge brown with powder purple, alongside the 1950s domestic textile prints that have been revived countless times since and remain beloved by Prada devotees. It was a distinctly offbeat proposition at a time when fashion was dominated by slick, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy-coded minimalism.
.png?trim=34,0,86,0&auto=webp&quality=75&width=1200 "My London: Trinny Woodall shares her secrets with cabbies, shops at Liberty and stays at Claridge’s")
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Then for autumn/winter 2012, she presented another print-heavy collection, this time offsetting the busy geometric patterns with zingy tangerine and deep royal-purple tailoring, with the latter shades extending to two-tone footwear. Fast-forward to Prada’s autumn/winter 2026 offering, where layering was the concept; colour once again played a key role. Bolder winter colour combinations included burnt orange and sky blue, teal and powder pink, and lime green and fuchsia, alongside more wearable pairings such as deep burgundy and charcoal, lemon yellow and black.
Indeed, incidental colour combinations were a recurring theme across the autumn/winter 2026 collections. At Gucci, navy satin was paired with brown faux fur; at Dior, khaki suede met light-blue denim; and at Tory Burch, muted olive wool was set against charcoal suiting. Elsewhere, designers made a more assertive case for clashing shades: silken lilac and patent green at Marni, bright red and pitch black at Alaïa, and lemon yellow with rich plum at Miu Miu.
The trend was just as apparent beyond the runways. Last month, British Vogue’s Olivia Allen spotted a fresh appetite for unexpected colour pairings on the streets of London, as the style set flocked to the capital for fashion week. “The London leg of the shows feels like a long time ago already, but consider this your invitation to take a pause and absorb what was happening on the pavements here in the UK. For one thing, colour was high on the agenda.” Across the city, street style offered a kaleidoscope of combinations that felt like a welcome antidote to season after season of so-called “quiet luxury”.
